Puppy Training: Basic Commands and the Five-Minute Plan
So far you've mostly built habits — house-training, rest, a loose leash. Now the vocabulary book joins in: the four or five cues that carry everyday life. Not as drill, but as a game with a system.
Your puppy is now about 19 weeks old
The essentials at a glance
Three five-minute sessions a day beat any weekend hour. Training runs on reward and timing — a marker word makes both precise. And the most important cue of all isn't sit, it's the recall.
- Order by everyday value: recall, sit, down, stay, “drop/swap” — the recall gets the best rewards, always.
- A marker word (“yes!” or a clicker) marks the right second — the treat may then arrive two seconds later.
- Short, successful, stop: every session ends on a completed rep, not on the first failure.
- Cues get named only once the behaviour works — otherwise the puppy learns that “sit” is background noise.
- Punishment has no place in puppy training: it suppresses behaviour instead of replacing it, and costs trust you'll need for the recall.
How does a puppy actually learn commands?
Through a simple chain: behaviour happens → marked at the right moment → rewarded → named later. The puppy sits, your marker lands in exactly that second, the treat follows — after a few repetitions he offers the sit, and only now does it get the name. Whoever drapes the word over wriggling attempts from the start links it to everything except sitting.
The marker word is your precision tool: one short, always identical word (or a clicker) that freezes exactly the moment being paid. It solves the biggest beginner problem — the treat is almost always too late; the marker never is.
And: you train what you want to see, rather than fighting what you don't. Instead of “no!” for jumping up, there's reward for four paws on the floor; instead of scolding for stealing, a swap for something better. That inversion is the entire difference between modern training and permanent correction.
Why is the recall the most important cue?
Because in an emergency it saves lives, and in everyday life it means freedom: a dog that comes reliably can run where dogs may run. So the recall gets special treatment from week one: the best treat, the biggest party, zero negative consequences — nothing the dog dislikes ever follows his coming.
It's built ridiculously simply: recall word (once, cheerfully), puppy arrives — jackpot. First across the living room, then the garden, then on the long line with mild distractions. The word never gets burned: if you wouldn't bet on him coming, don't call — go and get him.
The two classics that ruin recalls: calling to end the fun (leash on, party over — from now on he comes slower) and calling without consequence management (he learns ignoring has no cost). Antidote: call often, reward, release back to play — and in uncertain situations keep the long line on until adolescence is through.
Which commands do you really need — and how do you build them?
Fewer than Instagram suggests. Four or five cues carry ninety per cent of daily life; the rest is freestyle. Sit emerges from a treat guided slowly back over the puppy's nose — the rear sinks by itself. Down from the sit, treat moving vertically to the floor. Stay grows in seconds and small steps: duration first, then distance, then distraction — never raise all at once.
“Drop”, or the swap, is the underrated fourth cue: puppy has something in his mouth, you cheerfully offer better, he drops, marker, reward — and often gets the object back afterwards. He learns: giving things up pays and isn't a loss. That is lived prevention against resource guarding.
For everything, the three-D rule applies (raise Duration, Distance, Distraction separately) plus the change of scene: a sit in the living room is not yet a sit in the meadow. Practise each cue in three or four places before you call it “known”.
The five-minute training plan (3× daily)
- 1Session 1 (morning): recall games indoors or in the garden — three to five jackpot recalls.
- 2Session 2 (midday): the current new thing — this week e.g. down or swapping, five reps.
- 3Session 3 (evening): repeat what already works, in a new place or with mild distraction.
- 4Always: end on a success, count treats into the ration, rest afterwards.
- 5Weekly: one distraction level up OR one new place — never both at once.
What if it isn't working — and what about “no”?
If an exercise fails three times in a row, it's almost never about will: the step was too big, the distraction too strong, the reward too boring, or the puppy too tired. The answer is craft, not harshness — halve the demand, simplify the environment, upgrade the reward, shorten the session.
An interrupt cue — a neutrally built “stop, that's not worth it” — is still sensible and deserves clean training: word, orientation to you, reward for the reorientation. What it isn't: a permanent “no!” wallpapering the day, let alone yelling or scruff-grabbing. A puppy punished for mistakes doesn't stop making mistakes — he stops trying new things near you. That is the most expensive learning loss of all.
And get company: after puppy class, now is the natural moment for the adolescent course. Puberty is at the door — with a trainer alongside it stays a phase instead of becoming a rift. The training planner on this site structures the practice weeks in between.
Frequently asked questions
How long should a puppy training session last?
Three to five minutes — after that, concentration drops fast. Three short sessions across the day beat one long one: sleep between sessions consolidates the learning. Everyday training counts too: sit before the bowl, recall to dinner — free repetitions.
Reward with treats, toys or praise?
With whatever YOUR dog currently values most — usually food for learning new things (fast, precisely dosable) and play for movement exercises like the recall. Praise alone is too cheap for hard tasks for most puppies. Treats come out of the daily ration, see week 9.
When will the recall work around distractions?
Realistically: solid under mild distraction after a few weeks of consistent training — and then adolescence arrives and questions everything. That's normal and not a permanent regression. Long line on, keep the standard, keep rewarding; from the second year you harvest what you sow now.
My puppy jumps up at people. How do I stop it?
Through inversion: four paws on the floor get marked and rewarded, jumping becomes boring (turn away, ignore, no speech — not even a scolding “down!”; attention is reward). Plus management: brief visitors to greet the puppy only once he stands or sits. Everyone's consistency decides, not the method.
Do we need a clicker, or is a word enough?
A marker word is entirely enough and always with you. The clicker is more precise and more neutral — practical for shaping and training nerds. What matters is only: one signal, one meaning, always the same consequence. Whether it clicks or says “yes!” makes no difference to your dog.
Sources
- TVT (veterinary animal-welfare association) — publications on welfare-appropriate dog handling
- German Animal Welfare Act § 11 — permit requirement for commercial dog trainers
Last reviewed on July 27, 2026 by Sufyan Osamah · what that means: Editorial standards
Tools that help here
Related reading
Looking for your puppy?
Kennels on HonestDog have an open profile with breed and region — ask them the questions from this guide directly.
Browse puppies