Feeding Your Puppy: Switching Food, Portions and Meal Rhythm
The moving stress is digested, the routines are set — now is the right moment to shape feeding deliberately: review the food and switch if needed, match portions to the growth curve, and stop treat inflation.
Your puppy is now about 17 weeks old
The essentials at a glance
If you want to change food, do it now and mixed over seven days. Portions follow the feeding table plus a body check — ribs palpable, waist visible — and treats get deducted from the ration, not added on top.
- Switch food gradually over about a week: a little more new, a little less old each day. Abrupt switches are a diarrhoea programme.
- Puppies need puppy food declared as a complete food — during growth, nutrient balance isn't a detail but the foundation.
- Three meals a day is typical now; the move to two usually comes around month six.
- The table on the bag is a starting value. Calibration happens on the dog: ribs palpable, waist visible, growth steady rather than steep.
- Raw feeding during growth only with a professionally calculated ration — improvised, it is the leading cause of diet-related skeletal damage.
This article summarises current professional guidance for orientation and does not replace veterinary advice in the individual case. If your dog is unwell, your vet is the right address.
How do you switch food correctly?
Slowly — and only with a reason. If your puppy tolerates the breeder's food well, has a shiny coat, formed stools and steady growth, there is no obligation to change. Reasons would be: poor tolerance, questionable declaration, or the variety simply being hard for you to source long-term.
The switch itself follows the seven-day staircase: for the first two days mix a quarter new food into three quarters old, then half and half, then three quarters new, fully switched from day seven. For sensitive stomachs, stretch each step to three days. Soft stools during the switch are normal; diarrhoea means one step back.
How to recognise good puppy food: it is declared a complete food for puppies or “growth” — meaning it covers the full nutritional needs of growth under the FEDIAF nutritional guidelines, including the critical calcium-phosphorus ratio. Marketing vocabulary like “grain-free” or “like the wolf” says nothing about that.
How much food does your puppy need?
As a starting value: the manufacturer's feeding table for the breed's TARGET weight and current age — not for the current weight alone. These tables are averages; your individual dog may sit ten or twenty per cent above or below.
Calibration therefore happens on the body, not the measuring cup: ribs should be palpable under light pressure like pencils under a towel, a waist visible from above, the belly line tucked from the side. A chubby puppy isn't “thriving” — it's a risk: excess weight during growth loads joints in their most vulnerable phase and programmes fat cells for life.
Weigh weekly at the same time and track the curve — the feeding calculator on this site helps with reference values. Steady is the goal: in large breeds, overly fast growth is explicitly undesirable, even though “filling out nicely” sounds like health.
How often do you feed per day?
At four to five months, three meals is the usual rhythm — morning, midday, evening, at fixed times. Fixed times stabilise digestion, make toilet times plannable, and double as a checkpoint where appetite serves as a health indicator.
The move to two meals usually comes around month six, when portions for three meals become impractically small. There is no fixed date: a dog still eating three times at seven months is doing nothing wrong. In very small breeds, smaller, more frequent meals often stay sensible for longer.
After eating, rest applies — no romping, no training, no wild garden lap. That aids digestion in all dogs and, in large deep-chested breeds, is a precaution to take seriously against life-threatening gastric torsion.
Raw feeding, home cooking, picky eating: the common questions
Raw feeding and home-cooked rations during growth are precision work: calcium, phosphorus, vitamin D and energy must stay in the right ratio for months, and errors only show once they've reached the skeleton. If you want this route, have the ration calculated by a veterinary nutrition specialist — “recipe from a forum” is not an option for a puppy. Raw feeding also has hygiene rules; keyword Aujeszky's disease: never raw pork.
If your puppy eats poorly, audit the maths first: usually the appetite isn't too small, the side-calories are too big — a puppy collecting chews and treats all day isn't hungry at dinner. Add teething phases where chewing hurts (soaked food helps), and plain hot days.
Poor eating becomes a vet case with accompanying symptoms: a puppy that is listless, vomits, has diarrhoea or eats practically nothing for more than a day gets seen — puppies have no reserves for long experiments. And a word on pickiness: whoever answers refusal with something more exciting is training a gourmet. Bowl down, removed without comment after twenty minutes, next meal as normal — healthy dogs don't voluntarily starve.
Frequently asked questions
Wet or dry food for a puppy?
Both can be complete; what decides is the declaration as a complete puppy food. Dry food is more practical for training and chewing mechanics; wet food brings moisture and stronger flavour. A combination is perfectly fine — just calculate the amounts proportionally.
From when can my puppy eat adult food?
After the main growth is done: small breeds around months nine to twelve, medium around twelve, large breeds often only at fifteen to eighteen months. The change runs over the seven-day staircase like any switch. In doubt, your vet decides with a view to the growth curve.
Which chews are suitable for puppies?
Soft to medium chews in puppy size — rabbit ears, dried chicken breast, dedicated puppy chews. Too hard (antler, bones, hard bull pizzles) risks tooth fractures, especially during teething. Always supervise, and count chews into the calorie budget.
My puppy inhales his food in seconds. Is that a problem?
Gulping is common and mostly harmless, but a risk factor in large breeds. A slow-feed bowl, food scattered on a snuffle mat or served from a food toy reliably slows things down — and turns the meal into enrichment on the side.
May my puppy have table scraps?
Better not — for two reasons: many everyday foods are unsuitable to toxic for dogs (onions, seasoned dishes, xylitol), and table feeding trains a professional beggar. If you want to share, do it planned: dog-suitable ingredients, counted into the daily ration, served in the bowl.
Sources
- FEDIAF (European Pet Food) — nutritional guidelines for dogs and cats
- ESCCAP Germany — hygiene guidance for raw feeding
- Ismaning Animal Clinic — foods toxic to pets
Last reviewed on July 27, 2026 by Sufyan Osamah · what that means: Editorial standards
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